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Fashion Flickering Glance

白鯨已死, 海之四隅也不再有風神呼氣,天上的星辰輿海水的味道都失去了暗示命運的作用。

Ultra Femininity


As I was always interested in delicacy and beautiful details, I sketched the nina ricci collection ss11 for its breath taking beauty and femininity. For Peter Copping, femininity may mean a lot of ruffles, frills, gathered sheerness, all dipped in a palette that went from demure whites and creams to a build up of hot jewel tones that are also in keeping with the season.

The whole collection represented the lightness of fabric and, with a bit see-through of the underwear and detail design of the back, there were also some backless silhouette, suggested the overall emphasis was on a sense of ladylike glamour.

Peter Copping has been investigating the limitation of femininity power for the past few seasons., as I researched the previous collection, since he started to be the director of Nina Ricci. This time he used watercolour florals contrasting the sleek trenchcoats to approach this theme.

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As to me, one of the strongest Spring Summer 2011 themes is the re-working of the classic white shirt

It was very impressive when I saw Viktor & Rolf’s entire collection was based on the re-working of the classic man’s shirt and finally turned it into a women’s wedding dress. It was an entitled ‘Shirt Symphony, The final piece was extremely sculptural, mean while the rest of the collection turned to be and . Senior Fashion Editor Katie Shillingford from DAZED DIGITAL said:

“Their modifications of the shirt showed a journey from masculine to feminine.”

My favorite part of the collection is the way they reused the classic parts such as standing collar and hard cuff, reshaped the whole structure in a very imaginative way and combined hard, papery fabrics with soft, floating, silk chiffon or stretchy cotton, to create something truly innovative and unique.

There are some other re-appropriation of the classic cut man’s shirt can be noticed. Chloe and Balenciaga tend to work with the embellishment of the its collar: silver and gold collar tips atop polka dots and coloured, others like Yves Saint Laurent played with cut and tailoring to give this bright orange shirt a curvy adorable backless back.

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There is a continuity of simple feminine silhouettes going on the SS11 fashion weeks as I sketched and researched the catwalk shows, fitted jackets, knee-length skirt and slim waistline, from Donna Karen in NYC, Christopher Kane in London to Jil Sander in Milan.

However, despite the clean cuts and minimalism of silhouettes, these designers added other elements, the confidence of using stunning colours or the delicacy of fabrics, gave a sophisticated touch to these collections, pared a combination of high fashion and comfort, representing how modern women should look like.

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**Dolce&Gabana’s did a whole white collection! I love it!!!

 

Back to the silhouette topic, a lot of girly and pretty look now on stage of the SS11 shows.

The teen feeling started from Twenty8Twelve in London with denim dress and miniskirts, extended with its baby dolls in broderie anglaise of Collette Dinnigan, Bustier dress embroidered with crystals from Dolce&Gabana’s white collection might be noticeably a bit more grown-up. The lightness of colours and beautiful details maintained the subtlety of the collection successfully.

Younger and Younger and younger, dreamy pretty pure as every woman wants to be.

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Vivienne Westwood was still exploring her ongoing themes of structured tailoring. Flattering and bold shapes, as I sketched down my first impression from the catwalk video.

Contrarily, these extravagant shoulders and loosing waists, suggested the softness of tailoring fabrics. And there’s a street-ness feeling which I like generating from her classic reds, pinks and tartan, works well with thin belts and funky hats.

**The colours are meltingly warm for SS but I like them.

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Peter Copping continued his ultra feminine tract for the new season

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Sarah Burton simultaneously paid respect and ushered in a new era with her first official collection for Alexander McQueen

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